The Grapes

Photos and First Impressions

 

View from across Narrow Street

Streetside View

The Bar and Front Room

Rear Room

Upstairs Seating

View of the Thames from the Back Deck

Chronicling from the Barstool

 

The Grapes is among a handful of historic riverside pubs still standing. Though the pub was founded in 1583, the current building dates back to the 1720s—one of the few structures that survived the London Blitz unscathed.

 

That old-world charm oozes from the structure at virtually every turn, from the traditional potted-plant trappings over the entrance, to the small deck on the Thames to accommodate overflow crowds. Every piece of wood, from the tables to the floors, is worn and rubbed smoothed from centuries of use. An appropriately dingy and hideous area rug greets visitors at the threshold. In truth, it really ties the room together, so I’m sure the Dude would approve.

 

Basically, the pub is like a two-story shotgun house, with a straight view from the front door to the rear balcony. My pint was that much more enjoyable while taking in the view of London from the south bank of the Thames as a cool breeze blew through. Combined with the healthy banter among barkeeps and regulars, it very much lived up to my ideal pub, and it ranks among my favorites I’ve visited thus far.

 

Over the years, the pub has achieved notoriety in artistic and literary circles, and it’s been featured in various well-known works, including Charles Dickens’ Our Mutual Friend, Oscar Wilde’s The Picture of Dorian Gray, and Arthur Conan Doyle’s Sherlock Holmes series. Somewhat oddly and unexpectedly, famed actor Ian McKellen is today a part owner of the pub. Despite the fine selection of ales, hobbit and dwarf sightings remain rare.

 

Also in the pub’s founding year of 1583…

• Elizabeth I rules England.
• Humphrey Gilbert claims Newfoundland for Great Britain, the first English settlement in North America, kickstarting the British Empire.
• The first life insurance policy is sold.
• The Spanish conquer Dunkerk.
• The Netherlands adopt the Gregorian calendars.

On Draught

 

Deuchars IPA

Caledonian Brewing Co.

3.8% ABV

 

I wasn’t sure how I’d feel about this one because I’d never has a cask IPA. It’s actually quite nice. The traditional hoppy taste of an IPA is still present, but the finish is less bitter and much smoother in comparison to what I’m used to.

Ye Olde Mitre

Photos and First Impressions

The Hidden Pub

The Secret Garden

Entrance Marker on Hatton Garden

Corridor Approaching the Pub

Yet Another Side Passageway

Bar and Front Room

Rear Room

Chronicling from the Barstool

 

Ye Olde Mitre’s story is one of controversy and mystery, and who doesn’t love that? The pub proudly displays its founding date throughout the premises: 1546. It traces its lineage to the Bishop of Ely, who built the pub to serve those in his employ.

 

Trouble is, London records date the establishment to 1773. My guess is that some form of the pub probably did exist in the 1500s, but the records reflect the beginnings of the current structure. That would seem to line up with the stories of several other old pubs throughout the city.

 

I’m going with 1546 as the founding date, if for no other reason than it preserves a likely apocryphal story regarding Queen Elizabeth I. Apparently, in the company of Sir Christopher Hatton, she danced around a cherry tree that once adorned the grounds.

 

As for the mystery, that lies more in its hidden location. I’m including a map here for reference so you can appreciate the oddity of it. The pub is located on Ely Court, but to call it a street is a misnomer. I’m not even sure it qualifies as an alley. If anything, it’s more akin to a private cobblestone drive. As such, the structure lies behind the posh homes of Ely Place and the jewelry stores along Hatton Garden (familiar names!). The only indication that a pub even exists back there is a small marker above the Ely Court entrance on Hatton Garden; there’s nothing at all on the Ely Place side.

 

The plus side of the private drive is that you can do most anything you want with it. The Mitre chose to scatter seating and greenery throughout the corridors surrounding the pub, with the barrel tables and planters at the front adding a nice touch of the traditional. Since the weather cooperated, that was my chosen spot, and given the relative seclusion from the busy streets, it felt like I was in small, medieval courtyard.

 

The pub has only two rooms, each of decent size. The front room houses the main bar and features a cozy little fireplace, surrounded by a handful of small tables. The rear room is a bit larger. Each features dark wood paneling along the walls, with a wide array of cups, mugs, and tankards suspended from the ceiling.

 

Overall I found it to be a rather charming spot, somewhat surprising considering its location in a bustling business district. The scavenger hunt to find it was well worth the effort.

 

Also in the pub’s founding year of 1546…

• Henry VIII rules England alongside his sixth and final wife.
• Treaty of Ardres ends the Italian War of 1542-1546, bringing peace between England and France—for a while, anyway.
• Christ Church at Oxford refounded under its new name.
• Trinity College founded at Cambridge.
• Spanish conquer the Yucatán.
• Michelangelo appointed chief architect of St. Peter’s Basilica.

  

On Draught

 

Oliver’s Island Golden Ale

Fuller’s Cheswick

3.8% ABV

 

As you would expect from a golden ale, it delivers on a light, crisp flavor. Somewhat surprisingly, however, it has a subtle yet noticeably hoppy aftertaste. I like that little bite. Adds some character.