The Old Bell Tavern

Photos and First Impressions

Streetside View

Seating Near the Front Window

The Bar

A Cozy Nook...and Inexplicable Lighting

Chronicling from the Barstool

 

Like much of central London, the Old Bell was built shortly after the Great Fire. And, like many of the iconic structures of the city, Christopher Wren designed it. As the story goes, his stone masons hard at work on rebuilding neighboring St. Bride’s Church needed a place to drink, and by George, Wren came through. It was a popular hangout for the masons constructing nearby St. Paul’s Cathedral as well.

 

Shortly thereafter, the pub became a common haunt for printers and journalists given its location on Fleet Street, a name synonymous with the British Press. Among the more notable outlets operating along Fleets Street were the Daily Courant (1702), the Morning Chronicle (1762), The Times (1785), The Daily Telegraph (1855), and the Evening Standard (1860).

 

The masons are long gone, and by the late 1980s, the major papers had closed or relocated, but the Old Bell still remains—along with several other bars, restaurants, and shops that line busy Fleet Street. Its most notable feature from the outside is its ornate, stained glass window, reading “Ye Olde Bell Tavern.” I’m not sure if this was the original moniker, but it certainly aligns with names of other area pubs built in the same era.

 

Once inside, I was surprised by the size of the place. It’s much bigger than what I expected, with two separate seating areas along the front, a large space in the rear, and tables along the east wall. The bar sits along the west wall, its half-circle shape and open design offering plenty of access during busier hours.

 

While I like the Old Bell, some of the décor choices perplex me. The dark wood bar, the paneling, and the elaborate ceiling work give the feel of an old, weathered pub. But then out of nowhere you see huge portions of the interior lined with white Christmas lights, almost like a pre-teen girl lazily tried to add some pizazz. These and other style clashes just make it hard to get a read on exactly what the pub is trying to be and who it's trying to cater to. These details may seem small, but it just feels as though the place is betraying its root a bit, and it pulled me out of the experience. Be a pub, not a club, and you’ll be just fine, ol’ girl!

 

Also in the pub’s founding year of 1678…

• Charles II rules Britain.
• Roman Catholics banned from English Parliament.
• John Bunyan publishes Pilgrim’s Progress.
• Treaties of Nijmegen end the Franco-Dutch War.
• Earning a Ph.D. from the University of Padua, Elena Cornaro Piscopia becomes the first woman awarded a doctoral degree.

On Draught

 

Wainwright Golden Ale

Daniel Thwaites

4.1% ABV

 

Nope. Just, no. Bland and flat, this brew is boring with no discernable flavor. It’s basically viscous, spiked water.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese

Photos and First Impressions

Streetside

Outside the Pub Proper

The Bar

Main Floor

Cellar

Chronicling from the Barstool

 

This place is less a pub and more a time machine. The signage proudly boasts “Rebuilt in 1667.” Yes. Rebuilt. Like so many other wooden structures, the original from 1538 fell victim to the Great Fire, but the owners were up and running a year later, determined as they were. The current building dates to that time, and it shows.

 

Like many of the older pubs in bustling central London, this one sits a decent ways back from the street, so the facade betrays the age of the building proper. Though they have electricity, the whole of the place is dimly lit, as if by candlelight. The upstairs boasts the fancier, dark wood wainscoting to accent the white wall, but that’s pretty much all the flair you get. The bench seats look more like church pews, and the wall décor is minimal.

 

Fireplaces adorn both the main floor and the basement, the latter of which appears slightly more ornate given the white, stone walls. The visible, worn rafters of this cellar space are low. I didn’t have to duck, but damn near. Conversation is all that punctuates an otherwise eerie quiet, much how I would have imagined it in the late 17th century. Even taking the photos for this post felt anachronistic—even sacrilegious—in such a place.

 

If you’re looking for the feel of an ancient pub, this place pretty much nails it. Plus, it wins the title for best-named pub running away. Still, I’m a bit sad I didn’t visit during peak hours, as I imagine that vibe would have added greatly to the experience. Perhaps a return visit is in order…

 

Also in the pub’s founding year of 1538…

• Henry VIII rules England, between wives three and four.
• Pope Paul II excommunicates Henry VIII.
• Geneva expels John Calvin and his followers.
• Truce of Nice ends the Italian War of 1536-1538, between France and the Holy Roman Empire.
• Jiménez de Quesada founds Bogotá, Colombia.

On Draught

 

Extra Stout

Samuel Smith’s

4.5% ABV

I finally found a Sam Smith brew I like! This is exactly as a proper stout should be: dark, thick, and full-bodied, with a hint of coffee and oaky flavors.

Town of Ramsgate

This post guest authored by Brent DeMoss

 

Photos and First Impressions

 

Streetside View

The Bar

Shotgun-Style Main Room

Continuing Outside

Split-Level Deck

Looking out on the River Thames

Chronicling from the Barstool

 

When Nick told me he’d stolen the idea for a blog from me, one that I've never mentioned or copyrighted, I was unsurprised since great minds drink alike. For the shared enjoyment of human nature with its faults and flourishes, not just the drinks within, we share a love of an idea that has been with us for centuries: the pub is a place where life happens.

 

For instance, if you were in the newly constructed Town of Ramsgate, a pub just north of the Thames that has been standing in its current form for around 270 years, you may have overheard conversations between a Captain Bligh and his Master’s Mate Fletcher Christian just before their voyage on the H.M.S. Bounty. Or you may have learned that the Colonies had just placed the U.S. Constitution into full effect, finalizing the steps that took those same colonies from British control.

 

While this pub is as old as many in London, it is unlike most of its ancient cousins. This pub feels more modern, with its white wooden panels, light oak woodwork, and fresh paint. The beer rotation has a London-specific cask ale selection (I went for the ubiquitous London Pride), as well as a handful of standbys. The outside section leads right out to the Thames where you can sit, drink, and enjoy the sights of the waterway.

 

In addition to the decor choices that set this pub apart from many, I very much enjoyed that it is off the tourist trails of London, far enough away from the Tower and Parliament that the clientele is uniquely local. While the restroom smells of piss and IPA, this pub feels like an elder that the neighborhood knows and loves.

 

Also in the pub’s founding year of 1545…

• Henry VIII rules England alongside his sixth and final wife.
• Henry VIII’s flagship, the Mary Rose, sinks at Portsmouth following the Battle of Solent.
• Pope Paul III opens the Council of Trent.
• Potsí founded as mining town in modern day Bolivia; the silver mines provide much of the Spanish Empire’s wealth over the next 250 years.

On Draught

 

Better Late than Never IPA

Portobello Brewing Co.

4.5% ABV

 

Nick only tried this because the logo on the hand pull featured an etching of Charles III, which is just hilarious. Turned out to be a pretty decent beer.