Photos and First
Impressions
| The Restaurant |
Chronicling from the Barstool
This one is an oddity on my
list. Known also as The Guinea Grill, they describe themselves as a gastropub,
though I’m hesitant to use the term given the American connotations. It’s
better to imagine the place as a classic British pub sandwiched together with
an incredible steakhouse.
There’s been a pub on
this site since 1423, when the Mayfair area was considerably more rural, meaning
farmhands and laborers were the primary clientele. The Guinea itself was founded
in 1675, shortly after the Great Fire destroyed the previous structure. I’m not
certain to what degree elements of the 17th century building are still woven
into the current iteration, but it wouldn’t surprise me if some parts were
original.
Though by no means would
I consider The Guinea on the outskirts of London, it maintains a quaint feel,
in large part thanks to its location, nestled near a quiet corner of Burton
Place. As you enter, the host greats you with a simple, direct question: “Drinking
or dining?”
Select the former, and
you walk to the right, through an arched gateway into…well…what you imagine an
old pub to look like. A large, wooden, L-shaped bar sits at the room’s center,
complete with the requisite cask ale hand pulls. To one side is a long drink rail,
and though there are a few stools, it’s mostly standing room. Along the windows
are a handful of small, worn tables with some benches and stool seats. Fairly
standard.
Select the latter, however,
and you walk straight ahead, check your coat and bags, and proceed to a more
formal dining area. The seating is tight, but comfortable. Each table is
covered with a pristine, white tablecloth and prepared with meticulous place settings.
Patrons are then encouraged to enjoy a premium cut of aged, British beef, cooked
medium rare at their recommendation.
So how did such a place
come about? Well, apparently the Brits have their American cousins to thank for
this one. U.S. diplomats stationed in London during and after WWII frequently
bemoaned that no place in England served a decent steak. There was, of course,
a very good reason: war rationing. In fact, meat was the last item derationed
item, ending the program in 1954. Until then, any cut of meat—let alone a good
steak—was hard to come by.
The Guinea took advantage
of the situation and began skirting rationing laws in 1946 to fill the demand,
first for diplomats and well-to-do locals, then later tourists and the public
writ large when the steakhouse side of the business officially opened in 1952.
I visited both halves of
the business, and whether dining or just drinking, The Guinea is well worth the
visit—if you’re willing to open up your wallet a bit.
Also in the pub’s founding
year of 1675…
- Charles II rules England.
- Royal Greenwich Observatory established.
- Foundation stone laid for St. Paul’s Cathedral in London.
- Christiaan Huygens patents the pocket watch.
- Gottfried Wilhelm Leibniz first demonstrates integral calculus.
On Draught(?)
For the main, a 12 oz.
bone-in ribeye, cooked medium rare. For sides, English peas sauteed in butter
with pearl onions and bacon, and cauliflower roasted in a cheesy cream sauce.
Then, naturally, a Camden Hells lager to wash it all down.
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