The Spaniards Inn

Photos and First Impressions

View of the Building Front

The Bar

Central Fireplace

The Beer Garden, as see from the Rear Door

Deeper into the Beer Garden

Cocooned in my Private Corner

Chronicling from the Barstool

 

Hampstead is a very wealthy suburb of London—and I mean British wealthy, not American wealthy. I’m not talking gated communities. I’m talking gated houses with private K9 security. The kinds of manor homes so grand that their owners feel the need to name them. Beautiful, but very much not my scene.

 

I walked the not-so-mean streets in my worn jeans, ragged flannel, baseball cap, and white trainers—far from pristine, and consequently the only shoes I brought with me. What can I say? I’m a grouchy, middle-aged man from the Midwest. I could give two fucks what some “little Hampstead cunts” think about me (that’s Ricky Gervais’description, not mine, by the way).

 

Joking aside, all that gave me away was my accent. The wealthy have drifted toward athleisure wear it seems, so if anything, I was (sadly) the best dressed chap in the Spaniards Inn. I felt quite welcomed and very much enjoyed my visit, in particular the outdoor patio, where I took in the scenic view—and of course a few pints.

 

The inn and tavern were established in 1585, the namesake coming from a Spanish ambassador to James I who frequently lodged there. Given its distance from the city center, it would have escaped the Great Fire in 1666, and though I can’t say for certain, I would guess much of the structure is original.

 

The pub is massive, both inside and out. There’s a long, wooden bar in the central room, which also features a fireplace, which is oddly small for a room that size. While there are a few booths, this area is mostly for standing customers. However, there are several adjoining rooms with worn wooden tables and the requisite mismatched chairs.

 

As I said before, the real treat is the beer garden. Much of it is shaded by trees interspersed throughout, and in combination with the many trellises and archways overgrown with climbing greenery, you feel almost as though you’re picnicking in a woodland meadow.

 

Perhaps its quiet, scenic nature is what attracted so many writers over the years. Charles Dickens was a frequent guest, and the pub is featured most famously in his The Pickwick Papers. Also of note, John Keats is rumored to have penned Ode to a Nightingale here as well. I managed to get a little writing done myself, so I’ll expect to see a commemorative plaque when I next return.

 

Also in the pub’s founding year of 1585…

• Elizabeth I rules England.
• Anthony Babington’s plot to murder Queen Elizabeth foiled.
• Spain confiscates several English ships, ramping up tensions.
• University of Franeker opens in the Netherlands.
• Sixtus V elected pope.

On Draught

 

Landlord

Timothy Taylor

4.3% ABV

 

Pretty solid cask ale here. As a pale ale, it’s smooth, light, and a bit creamy I would say. It also has some pleasant citrus notes.