The Turf Tavern

Photos and First Impressions

Main Entrance

Front Bar

Back Bar

Central Rooms

Rear Rooms

Northern Patio

Southern Courtyard

Old City Wall, Bordering Southern Courtyard

Key Historical Marker

Chronicling from the Barstool

 

Figured I’d include a bonus round of sorts, as this one's outside London, but just too good to pass up. I traveled to Oxford to visit the town and university, where I naturally sought out a hearty lunch and pint of ale, and there’s nowhere better than the Turf Tavern.

 

The foundation of the Turf (as its affectionately known) dates to 1381, when the building functioned as a malt house and tavern, so I’m counting that as the founding date, which I believe makes it the oldest pub I’ve visited. Still, even if I weren’t so generous, the front room was built sometime in the 1600s. Either way you slice it, the gal’s got some years on her.

 

The pub rebranded in 1852, adopting its current name and dropping the old moniker, the Spotted Cow. Apparently, the former establishment had quite the reputation for gambling, going so far as to host both dog and cock fights. Now that’s not to say illicit activity doesn’t go on in the Turf. Allegedly, this pub is where Rhodes Scholar and future President Bill Clinton smoked but “did not inhale” some wacky tobacky, a story the pub actively advertises.

 

Given its location and long history, a number of well-known historical figures have visited the pub. I’d say it’s a fair bet to count among those patrons most any notable Oxonian—the exceedingly British and delightfully pretentious name the university uses to refer to its alumni.

 

The Turf is a bit hard to find, with its two entrances each well off the mains streets and only accessible after walking down long, narrow passageways. The pub itself is a bit of a maze as well. It has a front and back bar, themselves connected, but used to distinctly separate two small rooms. There are also two additional rooms further back, which are a bit larger.

 

The real action seems to be outside. There’s extensive seating on the north and south sides of the building, with the south side courtyard butting right up against the remnants of the medieval city wall. Both areas feature extensive greenery to brighten the predominantly wood and stone surroundings.

 

The Turf Tavern is an excellent watering hole, but its motto is the cherry on top an already delicious sundae. Famously, the University of Oxford motto is “Dominus illuminatio mea,” or “The Lord is my light.” Refusing to be outdone, the Turf promises patrons “An Education in Intoxication.” Magnificent. Simply magnificent.

 

Also in the pub’s founding year of 1381…

• Richard II rules England (age 14, by the way).
• Peasants’ Revolt begins, and ends, with Richard II personally suppressing rebel forces.
• Lithuanian Civil War begins.
• Venice defeats Genoa in the War of Chioggia.
• Tamerlane conquers Persia.

On Draught

 

Reggies Turf

Greene King

4.5% ABV

 

This was my favorite cask ale during my entire time in England. Much more malty than the others I tried, it has a hint of caramel as well. The rich, amber color reflects the full flavor profile, plus an ABV north of 4% is a bit closer to what I’m accustomed.